Wine Review: Lambert Estate, keeping quality in the family.
The Barossa Valley, one of Australia’s oldest and most classic wine regions, hosts about 550 grape growers, 170 wine companies and 80 cellar doors which make it impossible to be familiar with all (though not for want of trying). So it was exciting to find a quality producer previously unknown. Lambert Estate ticked all those boxes for me.
Wisconsin businessman Jim Lambert was visiting the Barossa in the 1990s and fell in love with the place. He and his wife Pam bought a property just west of Angaston in the north-east corner of the valley. Subsequently his son Kirk joined his parents in South Australia, studied oenology at Adelaide University where he met and married a fellow student, Vanessa from Peru, and now the pair oversees all production.
With over 40ha and 17 different soil types at varying altitudes, the various microclimates created have allowed them to produce an array of estate-grown wine styles.
Six high quality wines were submitted for tasting and I was surprised that only one wine was under screwcap with five under cork at a time when the Australian industry has moved almost exclusively to closures other than cork. But happily all wines were in good condition.
The Wines
The Prologue 2017 Sparkling Pinot Noir, RRP $27
This wine shows a fine bead, a complex integrated nose with yeast autolytic characters reflecting the methode champenoise, and confectioned red fruits from the pinot noir grape. The palate has a fine mousse (mouthfeel), flavours of cherry and cranberry, and crisp firm acidity from early harvesting, hence the alcohol level of only 10%. A full-bodied, rich style with lingering flavours. A very good example of Australian sparkling wine
First Kiss 2017 Rose, RRP $20
This wine, with its attractive salmon pink colour, is dry with savoury characters and reminds me of the rose wines of the Southern Rhone, France. The aromas are restrained, showing some caraway seed character, while the flavours are broad, with sour cherry. A wine to accompany seafood, in particular oysters. For short-term consumption.
A Thousand Words 2015 Chardonnay, RRP $27
A typical Barossa chardonnay – this wine is full-flavoured, complex, ripe (alcohol is a huge 14.5% ), golden in colour and ‘big’ on the palate. Aromas of ripe melon and fig are replicated on the palate. The acidity is sufficient to support the ripe fruit and high alcohol. Generally I’m not a big fan of Barossa chardonnay but I enjoyed this wine a lot. It shows integration, length and a flavoursome clean finish. In fact, it is my second wine of this tasting.
Tempt Me 2016 Ternpranillo, RRP $28
This is a good varietal example of this increasingly popular Spanish grape. A vibrant garnet colour, a savoury, herbal nose with black cherry, deep brooding flavours of black plum, allspice, with a touch of tobacco. It displays the typical tempranillo ‘milky’ mouthfeel. An attractive wine for medium-term consumption.
The Commitment 2013 Shiraz, RRP $42
Quality Barossa shiraz never disappoint and here is another iconic example – big, warm (alcohol 15.5%), ripe and mouthfilling. A bouquet of pepper and allspice, earthy with hints of liquorice. Rich blackberry and black pepper flavours and vanillan comes through from well-handled oak. It’s a full-bodied wine that has just commenced its journey.
Silent Partner 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, RRP $90
One may baulk at the price but it is worth it. It is a privilege to be offered a super-premium wine that is at optimum maturity for tasting, and clearly my favourite of the wines reviewed. Attractive deep purple/red colour with a slightly browning meniscus from gentle ageing. The aromas leap out of the glass and are as fresh as a daisy given the wine’s maturity. They show vibrant mint and eucalyptus followed by trademark casis, all coated in wonderful oaky aromas. Then there is the palate. Wow! Supple yet powerful with smooth silky polymerised tannins. Oozing blackcurrant, menthol, perhaps a touch of truffle, and cedary oak showing through. A wonderful wine that will drink beautifully for many years to come.
By Dr Craig Drummond, Master of Wine.