Wine Review: House of Cards – A Sure Bet

A wonderful old Aussie farmer, a relative of mine who is sadly no longer with us, used to tell me, “One could never say I am not a gambler, as being a farmer I bet with at least $100,000 each season”. Travis and Elizabeth Wray, the owners and operators of House of Cards, agree with John’s statement. They believe “each vintage is a gamble” and “you have to play the hand that you are dealt”.

Their 12ha vineyard is located in the Yallingup sub-region of Margaret River. Varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Original vines were planted in 1997, giving wonderful age; deep rooted to allow them to be dry grown; and subsequently with low-cropping levels giving fruit great concentration. Organic and biodynamic principals are followed as best they can be, with east-west trellising in place to reduce the vagaries of the coastal elements.

Winemaker Travis-Wray

The Wrays do the whole process, from viticulture, to vinification, to the promotion and marketing of the final product. For this, as like many we feature in Medical Forum, I take my hat off to them as I know the difficulties of that workload.

Things that particularly impressed me about their operation were, firstly, their website, which is full of up-to-date information when so many others are not, and, in particular, is the amazingly original and eclectic packaging. It portrays various aspects of the pack of cards, and of various card games. Added to this is the detailed information on production methods on the labels. As a previous producer, I am well aware of the importance of what the consumer sees ‘on the shelf’. However, most important of all is what’s in the bottle and, as my tasting notes indicate, it did not disappoint. Their gamble is certainly paying off.

The Wines

House of Cards Three Card Monte 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (RRP $25)

The striking feature of this 100% SB is the aromatics, lifted, rich gooseberry and green herbs, with a flinty underlying character. Reminiscent of the great wines of Graves (Bordeaux), 0ak-ageing for 12 months (20% new) and seven days’ skin contact resulting in powerful and complex flavours. Fruity characters abound – gooseberry, green bean and nettles. Oak gives weight structure and complexity. This is not your short-term fruity SB style. Crunchy acidity holds it all together. Despite strong winemaking influences, the varietal character shines through.

House of Cards The Royals 2017 Chardonnay (RRP $40)

Here’s an enjoyable Chardonnay in the ever-reliable Margaret River style. The nose shows opulent ripe pear and peach skin. The oak is integral and the palate textured, complex, with nectarine and white peach. Clean acid finish. Medium length . For mid-term consumption.

House of Cards 2015 The Royals Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP $40)

A medium-to-full-bodied Cabernet that is very enjoyable now but will benefit from 4-6 years in your cellar. It shows a slightly developed garnet colour; on the nose there’s redcurrant, cinnamon, dried herbs and cedary oak. Flavours include black plum and black olive, the tannins fine and focused, medium acidity, oak is well integrated considering its 18 months’ (35% new).

House of Cards 2015 Ace of Spades (RRP $65)

In the producers words “the highest of the deck” and I’d agree. Composed of CS 50%, Malbec 25%, Petit Verdot 25%, it is a variation on the classic Medoc (Bordeaux) blend and it works beautifully. A blend from the best six barrels in the winery A wonderful wine. Subtle yet powerful. Smooth, mellow, sliding across the palate. So easy to consume now, but if you have the will power, it will go on for many years. Classic cassis; sound structure from non-evident acid and fine tannins. Everything in beautiful balance.

House of Cards 2016 Blackjack Malbec (RRP $48)

It would be easy to name the Ace of Space “wine of the tasting” and, yes, it is impeccable. However, I’ve chosen this Malbec for its expression of a great variety that I am keen to see promoted here in our state. This Southern French variety, I believe, has a superb second home in the South West/Great Southern regions of WA. I am always excited to taste them as varietals from our state and this example doesn’t disappoint. Still so youthful with a vibrant lively deep purple colour, the aromas briary and brambly, with a touch of aniseed and fennel, and sandalwood characters from oak. It is full-bodied, warm on the palate, with earth and pepper, fine, focused, dusty tannins, firm linear acid, and lingering sweet fruit on the finish. I give this wine another 10 years to mature.